Between 25-30 December each year, Santiago de Cali, or just Cali for short, turns into a huge festival that can only be described as one of the most vibrant and joyful events on earth (at least in my opinion). La Feria de Cali, or the Cali Fair, is much more than just an annual celebration, it’s one of the most important music and cultural events in Colombia, and in Latin America. Also known as the Sugar Cane Fair, or the Salsa Fair, it forms an important part of Cali’s identity, celebrating its incredible diversity and claim to fame as the World Salsa Capital.
In a world without COVID, Cali is definitely where I would be spending Christmas this year. But the 63rd Cali fair will be taking place live online for the first time, which means that we can all enjoy it, even if virtually. The atmosphere in the streets is infectious. You will hear salsa all around you in the streets, coming anywhere from people’s homes to taxis, supermarkets or shopping malls. 2018 marked the 61st Feria de Cali since it very first took place in 1957, and Bailando Journey was privileged to get press access to bring you the glimpse into this incredible event. Looking back at my experience at the Cali Fair back in 2018, here are my top six highlights:
If you can imagine a five-hour salsa marathon, where dancers from 32 of the city’s best salsa schools tirelessly parade and roar through their performances, then you can imagine the Salsadromo. Taking place on the 25 December, it marks the opening of the Cali Fair where dancers showcase their best skills after months of preparation, in what is for them one of the most important events of the year. If you could imagine the Rio Carnival parade, but with salsa instead of samba, then this would be it.
The Carnival parade was an ode to Cali’s history and culture, sharing its great diversity from its African roots and Pacific coast to indigenous cultures. The parade was opened by Colombia’s flag bearer Camilo Zamora (iconic star of salsa circus Delirio), followed by fantastical characters ranging from butterflies to flowers, carnival queens and folklore dancers. You could also spot references to Cali’s iconic monuments, legends and mythical characters like the statue of conquistador Sebastián Belalcazar, the demon of Buziraco, or its iconic dancers. People of all ages took part in the parade, from young children to people of older generations, a testimony to the fact that these celebrations are ageless.
The theme for 2018 was Cali’s women—aiming to promote women’s empowerment and gender equality, which was reflected throughout all of the Cali Fair’s events and activities. All-female salsa bands, musicians and dancers were given the spotlight in what is a traditionally male-dominated industry, and awareness raised on the challenges of domestic violence and inequality that women continue to face in the city, and in the country. Most beautiful of all though was the emphasis on the rich diversity of Cali’s women, who regardless of the colour of their skin or background, share a unique identity as Caleñas.
The last two nights of the Cali Fair gave the spotlight to some of salsa’s most important artists and saw the performances of 40 musical ensembles, 31 local and nine international. Made up of different stages, the street fair’s headline artists included Grupo Niche, Guayacan Orchestra, Oscar d’Leon, Hermanos L’Bron and Willy Garcia… among many others. But what makes this concert so special is the energy from the crowd. Many came carrying their own cowbells to mark the clave (salsa beat), singing out the lyrics, and dancing together in the streets.
A slightly more composed affair, the encounter of music lovers and collectors is like an homage to vintage records in a digital world. There’s a different theme each day, from Bolero music to female singers of the Caribbean and more. A digital image of record player spins nostalgic tunes, followed by live music, while you can enjoy browsing through different stalls selling records, books, salsa memorabilia, instruments, and souvenirs. Rows of plastic chairs are laid out so you can join the locals and sit back to enjoy the music over a chilled beer and mango snacks.
With the Cali Fair taking place at Christmas time, the city lights up with the most incredible sparkling Christmas lights in what is known as the Alumbrado. In 2018 the theme was “Cali- rhythm of Christmas”. Made up of 10,000 lightbulbs, it saw Cali’s major monuments shine with a sparkling walking boulevard along Avenida Colombia. Locals told me it was the most beautiful they had seen so far, so we can only have high hopes for next year!
For more photos of the Cali Fair, follow Bailando Journey on Instagram and Facebook. If 2018 was anything to go by, we can’t wait to see how the Cali Fair will look like in 2019 as the event grows every year and Colombia.
Want to visit the Cali Fair? Check out their website and Instagram for more information and inspiration!
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Behind every dance, there is a story. This book will take you dancing from New York to Buenos Aires, immersing you in the local culture, history, and happiness with every dance step. Aliénor Salmon is represented by Gregory Messina of the Linwood Messina Literary Agency.
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